Daily Herald

Surfer-girl chef infuses sola with the spirit of the islands

By Melissa Allen | Daily Herald Columnist

Chef Carol Wallack takes care to envelop her life, food and restaurant with the spirit of "aloha."

As owner of Chicago's sola restaurant, the part-time Maui and Lincoln Park resident infuses American cuisine with Asian and Hawaiian flavors. Born in Los Angeles, Wallack is a surfer girl in the heart of the city and considers herself very lucky to be doing what she does as it allows her to sneak back to the ocean now and then.

What started you in restaurant work? Growing up near the ocean, I liked competitive surfing, and the advantage of restaurant work was that I could work later on in the day and head to the water in the mornings. Both restaurants I worked at actually had showers out back so we could rinse our boards off before going to work.

Where did you learn to cook? Though I applied and was accepted, I did not attend culinary school but instead picked up everything on the job as I went along. Part of the reason I did not get my degree is that I wanted an income without asking my parents, though I know they would have helped me! I believe that having a later start in cooking actually made me more driven and directed toward my goals.

I had a good friend who was an executive chef, and I was fascinated with her job. I always asked her tons of questions. After awhile I finally talked her into letting me have a job at her restaurant.

What do you like best about your job? I have always loved cooking and particularly enjoy the creativity and artistic abilities it brings out in me. I also enjoy the instant gratification it gives me. Surfing and cooking both give me a strong sense of accomplishment.

What did you want to be when you grew up? Growing up near the ocean, I was set on becoming a professional surfer. It is just something I grew up with and that I have always loved. I love the smell of the saltwater, the sounds, the freedom and, of course, the lifestyle.

Do you still find time to enjoy surfing? I actually own a home in Maui and get there as often as I can. I save up all my personal and sick time and take it all at once so I can enjoy it as much as possible!

How does the island lifestyle influence your cooking? I serve food with a lot of Asian, Hawaiian and Indonesian twists. I also serve a lot of pineapple, mango, bananas, papaya and, of course, fish from those areas. I have it flown in three times a week!

Is there anything on your menu that you wish customers would try more? My favorite dessert at sola is braised pineapple with coconut sorbet, and for some reason people often pass over it. I often send it out to tables anyway, and when customers taste it, they love it. It speaks of Aloha and is very light and delicious.

Top Chef's Dale Levitiski has cited you as his mentor. Any thoughts? I gave Dale his first cooking job, and he's a great guy. I am very proud of him and proud that he got as far as he did.

Do you cook at home? When I am in Hawaii I cook all the time, but it's not something I get to do often in Chicago. My neighbors in Maui are sort of my guinea pigs -- I try new things on them all the time.

Tell us about this recipe. sola short ribs. I have won many awards with this recipe, and I am always amazed at how many ribs we go through in a night at sola. Feel free to experiment with it -- it's just food after all!

Try this at home or at sola. 3868 N. Lincoln Ave., Chicago. (773) 327-3868 or www.solarestaurant.com.

Sola Short Ribs
1 cup soy sauce
2 cloves garlic
1 lemongrass stalk, chopped, white part only
1 inch ginger, peeled and chopped
¼ cup brown sugar
½ cup green onions, chopped
1 sweet Maui onion, chopped
1 teaspoon sambal oelek (see note)
¼ cup orange juice, fresh squeezed
½ cup hoisin
2 tablespoons lime juice
3-4 pounds boneless short ribs carved into 2½-by-8-inch portions
Salt and pepper
Vegetable oil, for frying
½ cup sake
Garnish
¼ cup whole mint leaves
¼ cup whole cilantro leaves
Lime sections
Heat oven to 300 degrees.

In a bowl, combine soy sauce, garlic, lemongrass, ginger, brown sugar, green onions, sweet onion, sambal oelek, orange juice, hoisin and lime juice. Mix well. Set aside.

Roll each short rib section up lengthwise into a ball and tie with butcher's twine. Lightly flour and season with salt and pepper. Use very little, if any, salt when seasoning since there is soy in the braising liquid.

Heat a large Dutch oven over medium heat. When it's hot, add vegetable oil. When the oil is hot, add the short ribs and brown on all sides. Remove and keep warm.

Add sake to the pan, breaking up the brown bit on the bottom. Add the soy mixture to the pot, then add ribs back. Cover and braise 3 to 4 hours. Ribs are done when they feel tender to the touch. Remove from the oven and let ribs rest in braising liquid for 30 minutes. Remove ribs to a plate, remove strings and keep warm.

Ladle (and discard) the fat off the top of the braising liquid; cook over medium heat, reducing liquid by about half. Serve sauce over the ribs. Serve with stir-fried vegetables.

Serves two to four.

Chef's note: Sambal oelek is an Asian chili sauce. Look for it at specialty supermarkets such as Whole Foods Market or at Asian grocers.