Chicago Sun Times

TASTY BLEND

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sola

by Sherman Kaplan

CHICAGO (WBBM Newsradio 780) -- Self described “surfer girl” Carol Wallack has found the perfect balance at her new restaurant, sola, at 3868 North Lincoln Avenue. She cut her cooking chops at Deleece, before venturing out on her own a few months back. sola has become an instant hit, and for good reason.

In fact, we found hardly a stumble from appetizer to dessert. Begin with seemingly simple tuna tartare, served as a trio focusing on individual embellishments. One is fairly straight forward, a second has a pleasant, not overly sharp pepper bite. The third is seasoned with ginger.

In another creation, Wallack uses lobster and ground shitakis as filling for Thai style pot stickers, set in a golden coconut and ginger broth. This is big time come back cooking!

Among other apps, Asian pear salad is simple and direct with blue cheese and walnuts. Carrot soup with star anise was the recent daily broth at sola. This could not be better, giving direct proof of Wallack’s pronounced culinary talent.

The California style cooking has other Asian influences, each subtle, suggestive of a clear sense of style and taste. Roast salmon crusted with dried porcini mushroom chips is a fine example. One might not really know this is salmon, save for its pale pink color and fresh identifiable taste.

Black cod in miso broth or five spiced Asian duck are other examples. Flavors are never overstated, but most if not all are clearly present and identifiable as part of the whole culinary impression.

While some of this suggests the ephemeral character of fine dining, there are contrasts. Braised short ribs, pork tenderloin in a bacon wrap or a New York strip steak with Béarnaise and Worcestershire sauces break the mold.

As for desserts, chocolate cake with a warm liquid fudge center is a model of its type and leads the list of nearly a dozen selections. Service is perfect. Expect to spend about $75 a couple for three courses plus add ons. There is valet parking and even curb side carryout.

sola at 3868 North Lincoln Avenue has a K/RATING of 20/20. AMBIANCE 4/4 HOSPITALITY 5/5 FOOD 10/10 VALUE 1/1

Chicago Free Press

New Bistro offers Asian-inspired fare for sophisticated tastes

by Rick Karlin

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UR Chicago

SIDEDISH

by Patrick Sisson

The project of self-proclaimed “surfer girl” and chef Carol Wallack, Sola seems a bit understated at first approach. The entrance to the amicable interior of this contemporary American joint -- an array of slightly muted, earthy tones set behind large panes of glass -- is tucked away just around the corner on Byron Street. But once you get a table and get settled, you’ll notice the place definitely has personality.

Wallack wanted to create a “relaxed, conversation-friendly environment,” and Sola scores big in that department. A three-sided fireplace adds character and a raised ledge filled with small, couple-friendly tables stretches out the contemporary room. Despite the grid of light fixtures on the ceilings that look a bit like a mod Lite Brite set, everything -- even the wall art -- is classy but not overbearing, focusing your attention on the conversation or cuisine at hand.

The menu is Californian (very crisp and clean), with lots of seafood and heavy Asian and Hawaiian influence. That doesn’t mean tiki torches, poo-poo platters and Don Ho. It’s full of subtle touches, such as the hint of coconut in the lobster pot stickers, which add more depth to American-style dishes. Appetizers, such as the trio of tuna tartare with a Thai cucumber sauce and ginger confit, have satisfying and sharp flavors. The main courses, which average just over $20, are savory dishes. The black pepper tuna, coated in the pungent spice, is rich and substantial, complimented well by the black beluga lentils and sweet balsamic soy sauce. But the braised short ribs, with a texture as succulent and chewy as pot roast, are stick-to-your ribs good. Served with glazed Brussels sprouts (much better than you remember as a kid) and white cheddar macaroni and cheese, it’s an aesthete’s idea of comfort food.

NorthShore Magazine Online

The Lamb Chops that Saved Lakeview

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Dish

Eight Reasons to Eat at Sola

An FOD report on Sola (3868 N. Lincoln Ave.; 773-327-3868):

1. The tables are far apart.
2. No loud music.
3. Reasonably conversation friendly.
4. Fireplace is a nice touch.
5. Artichoke fritters are a throwback to Gordon Sinclair.
6. Peppered tuna done to perfection.
7. Really liked their bread basket.
8. Great coffee.

Chicago Reader

Recent Arrivals

sola
By David Hammond

At SOLA self-described former surfer girl Carol Wallack has dreamed up a menu board with expert balance. A roasted-pepper-and-fennel soup came with a sambuca-infused creme fraiche; a sea greens salad was crisp with water chestnuts and played the bitterness of hijiki against the sweet spiciness of hoisin. There were some gimmicks: the “trio of tuna tartares,” though fresh, were indistinct in flavor; Parmesan fries with truffle oil sounded fabulous but turned out to be a fancified version of what you’d get at Gene and Jude’s. Far more memorable was the black cod, marinated three days in miso paste and rice vinegar, then seared and served with curried sunchokes and bamboo rice; it paired very well with a 2004 Mak sauvignon blanc big with grapefruit notes. We also tried Colorado lamb chops with eggplant and leeks, for which our server suggested a medium-weight Cartlidge & Brown pinot noir—an excellent match. Capping things off were citrus pound cake with mango curd and a molten chocolate cake with sesame brickle ice cream and wasabi-vanilla bean syrup. Sola delivers its entire menu curbside—call ahead, pay with a card, and pull up in front.

Time Out Chicago : Issue 53

Here comes the sun

It’s not a day at the beach, but Sola manages to take the edge off winter
By David Tamarkin Photograph by Donna Rickles

Note to restaurateurs: sun imagery works. Especially in the middle of winter.

Case in point: Sola, Lincoln Square’s comfortable new venue for chef-owner Carol Wallack’s cooking. Even though the name translates to “alone”—a reference to the fact that Wallack is on her own this time around, having just come from a collaboration with her sister at Deleece—customers and the restaurant’s publicists are focusing only on the first part of the word: Sol. “Sun.” And judging from Sola’s crowds, sun is exactly what Chicago is craving.

The essence of the sun—or at least the sun-soaked culture of the West Coast and Hawaii—is what Wallack tries to infuse into every dish on her menu. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t; either way, her menu is usually successful. The caramelized onion tartlet is a superb starter, its golden crust a rich base for the creamy, sweet-and-savory combination of onions, apples and Gruyère. And her brandade (whipped salt-cod puree) contains a touch of ginger, just enough to lighten up this classically rich dish—and, of course, to mark it with Wallack’s stamp.

Another Wallack original is “Carol’s Colorado Lamb Chops.” She’s been working on this dish for years, and it shows. The lamb is so tender it’s practically creamy, and the Dijon crust plays off the lamb’s gaminess brilliantly. It almost made up for the lackluster grouper, set atop a pile of bland purple rice.

Dessert is a funny concept for a restaurant that attempts to capture the essence of the beach (and all the trim, toned bodies on it). But Wallack consulted HotChocolate’s Mindy Segal on her creations and came up with a few that fit with her philosophy. The Thai coffee crème brûlée and pecan molasses cake are both fine. But they aren’t essential, and it’s just as well if you skip them. Besides, as Sola tries to remind us, swimsuit season is just around the corner.

WHERE Magazine

SOLA-Los Angeles native and self-professed "surfer girl" Carol Wallack recently opened this Asian-inspired contemporary American spot in the North Center neighborhood. The menu features plates like lobster shiitake pot pie with coconut ginger broth; miso black cod with bamboo rice and curried sunchokes; and dijon mustard-crusted colorado lamb chops.