Wednesday, December 27, 2006

Monday, November 27, 2006

USA Travel Magazine

Illinois Featured Highlight

sola restaurant, “Surfer girl” and former chef to some of Hollywood’s celebrities such as James Garner and one of my favorites, Jack Nicholson. Carol Wallack opened sola, a really dynamic and innovative Contemporary American eatery.

The rejuvenated area is more active, more lively with excellent dining, exciting nightlife, great shopping and is where sola restaurant will call home. Owner / Executive Chef Carol Wallack is a Los Angeles native and avid surfer who found her calling on the beach after meeting a Chef of the original Spago. Wallack left Los Angeles and came to Chicago bringing her love of sand and surf to her new restaurant sola. She gracefully created a dramatic décor of amber-hughed lighting with touches of rust, gold, chocolate brown tones along with other accents of reds, oranges and warming blues and greens throughout.

The accents and color tones along with earthy island accents of bamboo floors, wood, stone and some of nature’s friendly materials evoke the tranquil beauty of sand and ocean. There is also an acoustical coating in the ceiling along with a state of the art sound system that insures that diners can converse easily, making sola comfortable, relaxing with a wonderful friendly atmosphere. The design also incorporates a special door for curbside pickup, so that young parents driving up for carryout never have to take the kids out of their car seats.

sola features the best in casual fine dining and incorporates a strong element of Wallack’s Asian-Pacific flair that were developed through her frequent surfing trips to Hawaii. She says, “My heart is in Hawaii and I tend to cook what I like to eat.” Chef Wallack created a menu that will be seasonal straightforward American with California flair and plenty of the Asian and Hawaiian flavors. Look for excellent choices on the menu.

While Chef Carol Wallack may not be able to bring the beach to Lincoln Avenue, with sola, she strives to give her customers a sunny sensation with a friendly atmosphere.

Friday, July 28, 2006

CBS 2 Chicago News


Table For 2

by Vince Gerasole

CHICAGO (CBS) ― It's hot in Chicago, but if you're looking for a restaurant that will give you a great tropical feeling, CBS 2's Vince Gerasole invites you to a Table for 2.

The dining space at Sola is a monochromatic earth tone, but the kitchen cooks up entrées alive with fruity tastes and brilliant colors, like the halibut served on a bed of orange-toned papaya and braised peaches. It's the latest creation of executive chef Carol Wallack at her new North Side restaurant Sola.

"I'm on my own. It's the feminine version of solo," Wallack said. "I tend to cook the way I like to eat."

When not at work in the kitchen, Wallack is at play near her vacation home in Hawaii. Many offerings at Sola reflect her love of the islands, including poke – a civiche-like marinated fish appetizer poke with bits of fruit.

"Over the years, I've grown a love for Hawaii. I grow pineapples, mangos, and bananas," Wallack said.

A towering heirloom tomato salad bathed in cool cucumber water is a refreshing summer choice. Seared scallops are deliciously presented on a mushroom stock risotto with fava beans and peas. And a patchwork of yellow and red slow roasted beets crowned with a fennel and watercress salad tastes as good as it looks.

"I love slow roasting beets. It brings out all the natural sugars, and we serve with a blood orange vinaigrette. It has no oil at all."

Overall, we found the cuisine at Sola a singular sensation. It's atmosphere is comfortably contemporary.

Diners can expect to spend about $40. That includes dessert, such as the house-made citrus pound cake with a tropical fruit salad and homemade passion fruit sorbet.

Sola is located at 3868 N. Lincoln.

Monday, May 15, 2006

Chicago Magazine

Best New Restaurants 2006

Sola
Contemporary American
[$$]

The chef/owner, Carol Wallack, over from Deleece, takes a Hawaiian and Asian perspective on American cooking. Sola is a sleek and noisy bi-level space done in shades of brown, beige, and ocher—down to the brown butcher paper on cream-colored tablecloths. Waiters are sharp in describing the tasty trio of tuna tartares accompanied by ginger confit and Thai cucumber salsa. Purely Western and simply delicious, puffy artichoke fritters come with a soy dipping sauce and white truffle honey aïoli. Wallack grows mangoes, pineapples, and bananas in the backyard of her home in Hawaii, so watch for fresh fish paired with those fruits. The braised short ribs rock, but even better is the five-spice duck breast with brandied cherry ginger demi-glace, wonderfully matched by a complex 2002 d’Arenberg Footbolt Australian Shiraz ($38). Mainland American flavors come to the foreground in a fine pecan molasses cake with bourbon caramel, pecan brittle, and buttermilk ice cream.
–D. R. W.

Thursday, April 20, 2006

Chicago Tribune

So far, so good for Sola

Ex-Deleece chef excels in the details
By Phil Vettel

Sola is a culinary declaration of independence, a very personal statement by a chef/restaurateur who clearly sweats the details.

And, not coincidentally, it's a terrific restaurant.

Carol Wallack, the one-time chef at Deleece (which is still owned by her sister, Lynne Wallack-Handler), opened Sola in January in the North Center neighborhood, about a dozen blocks west of her former haunt.

Wallack originally considered a location a bit farther west--Maui, where she has a second home--but when circumstances prevented that move, she sensibly chose an area where her cooking already had a following.

Sola, however, is not Deleece West, though the restaurants' menus share a dish or two. This restaurant is very much Wallack's vision--a minimalist, light-filled area with contemporary decor, upscale cooking and a focus on service that borders on the fanatical.

Indeed, the name Sola is a feminization of the word "solo," though Wallack is quick to share credit for the restaurant with her co-workers, specifically sous chef ("and soon to be chef de cuisine," she says) Vince Zhanay.

Wallack's food demonstrates a love of texture and a fondness for spice, and a master's touch with both. It begins with the bread basket, which includes pretzel rolls, multigrain bread and crispy flatbread so spicy that busboys have taken to issuing warnings as they set each basket down.

Wednesday, April 19, 2006

Chicago Sun Times : Food

Wallack's Sola Shines

By Denise I. O'Neal

Wanting to strike out on her own, the former California surfer girl created a unique concept that offers something for every palate.

Sola's menu is alive with fresh California-style cuisine tweaked with Asian influences, such as Hawaiian snapper with roasted pineapple and shiitake mushrooms as well as traditional homey fare, including braised short ribs.

There are no ho-hum offerings on the brunch menu. Instead, there are items such as Grand Marnier-souffle French toast and huevos benedictos, which combines chorizo sausage, cornbread, salsa and Hollandaise sauce.

Wallack isn't new to the city. She opened Deleece with her sister more than a decade ago and still has an interest in the restaurant.

NEW KID ON THE BLOCK
Where: Sola
Address: 3868 N. Lincoln
Phone: (773) 327-3868
Price Range: $17-$28 entrees
Hours: 5:30 to 10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 5:30 to 11 p.m. Friday-Saturday. The restaurant has limited lunch hours and is open for brunch from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday-Sunday.
Pay: All major credit cards are accepted.
Reason to go: Chef/owner Carol Wallack brings a bit of California sunshine our way.

Sola will be offering outdoors dining, weather permitting, beginning in May.

Monday, April 17, 2006

Chicago Sun Times

WORTH SINGING

FOOD AND ATMOSPHERE IN PERFECT TUNE AT SOLA
by Pat Bruno

SOLA / ***
You know how it is when you can't get a tune out of your head? Sola, a new restaurant in Lake View, had me doing that with "O Sole Mio." That song was bouncing around in my head as "Oh, Sola mio," a positive prelude to how I might wish to sing the praises of this pleasant and most enjoyable restaurant.

The chef and co-owner of Sola is Carol Wallack. Not too long ago, she was in with her sister at a restaurant called Deleece (just up the road a piece on North Southport). Sola is open, bright, refreshing and radiates positive vibes.

There are some restaurants where there is so much raw energy that you get all jittery. And there are restaurants like Sola, where you can sit back, relax, get into the moment. Everything is smooth and the service is at your side but not in your face. Tables are nicely spaced, so you can chat without shouting, and you also can muse, connect with your food.

The menu is a tidy read. There is an equal number of appetizers and entrees (about a dozen each). A daily special or three is announced, as is the soup of the day. And, praise be, the price of each daily special also is announced, so there will be no surprise when you look at the bill.

The food here has three dominant influences: Asian, Hawaiian and American. That's not only from the choices, but from the nuances that hobnob around each dish. For example, a potato-leek soup in its birthright happens to be French, but when the chef adds a splash of coconut milk to the mix, it spins off (gently) in the direction of Asian, and the ride is quite tasty.

The provenance of brandade (salt cod and potato puree) is Provence, but Sola offers this French classic with a hint of ginger (instead of the usual garlic). Despite donning my skeptic's hat, I could not resist trying it. I still favor brandade made with garlic instead of ginger, but I was impressed with the creativity and the fact that cod works with ginger. I would like to see the brandade served on a flat plate instead of in a bowl, but that's just me.

While all of this was going on, I was snapping pieces off a "sail" of highly peppered flatbread that did the job of lighting the fuse on my taste buds, which in turn added some oomph to the Asian pear salad, a lusty combination on its own of greens, endive, thin slices of pear, blue cheese and pecans.

In a similar fashion, an onion tartlet appetizer really got it going with sensual flavors that came from the indulgent and rich honey-colored crust, the sweetness of the caramelized onions, a bit of tartness from the apples and, to round it all out, a nutty niceness from the Gruyere.

Eating on down the list of entrees, the first one listed on the menu is stated simply as seared scallops. The scallops, four plump beauties, were seared perfectly. Underneath the crusty brown exterior, the flesh was not quite rare, and with the moisture came flavor. The scallops were served under haricots verts and formed a circle around an "apple-sweet potato risotto." Not a risotto in the strict sense of the word, rather a grain that worked beautifully with the scallops. But the crowning glory in all of this was the elegant star anise sauce, a delight that brought the scallops to an even higher level of enjoyment.

I passed on the New York strip with mashed potatoes and oven-roasted chicken breast, simply because I had my eye on the tuna. This was a fine piece of fish, a chunky fillet encrusted with black pepper and glazed with a balsamic-soy syrup (great idea, that). To add to the pleasure, there were properly cooked snow peas (good crunch) and "black beluga lentils." I am not big on lentils, but I got on with these just fine.

The daily specials included beef tenderloin, monkfish with a mango chutney and lamb chops. The chops have become noted as the chef's signature dish, and well they should be. The lamb got a Dijon crust (I am of the opinion that lamb and mustard are an incomparable duo) and a silky "stuffing" of Cambazola, a cheese that straddles the line between Brie and Gorgonzola (actually the name is a combination of Camembert and Gorgonzola). The cheese is an interesting idea in that it tempers the flavor of the lamb just enough to make it all the more interesting.

Show me short ribs on a menu and I am a pushover. In this entree, the American comfort-food part of the menu comes out in full glory. Great meat: flavorful, fork-tender, delicious. And with the meat came the ideal accompaniments -- a pile of cheddar-laced macaroni and cheese and several halves of glazed brussels sprouts. The combination worked great.

Sola's desserts go into a dimension that makes a lot of sense when taking into account that bold Asian flavors might have been the lead-in. Sweetness became a palate cleanser in the beautifully done pecan molasses cake with a bourbon caramel sauce, served with a hunk of pecan brittle and lush buttermilk ice cream.

Or, in a more fruit-inspired fashion, try the warm citrus pound cake with its accompaniments of kiwi fruit, strawberry, papaya and a mango curd. It's all good.

Pat Bruno is a local free-lance writer, critic and author.

short ribs and pecan molasses cake. ***

Chicago Foodies

sola

sola was not what I expected. The street address is on Lincoln but the entrance is on Byron. You will miss it if you're looking for a storefront on Lincoln. That being said, it was a real surprise when I saw the place. It is a beautiful restaurant. Dozens of simple light fixtures hang in a grid from the high ceiling, simple and comfortable chairs keep a very large space open but formal. The decor was not what I associate with the neighborhood that finds the great bar/hangout Grizzly's a block over.

We started with frou-frou drinks and they were really good. They actually are good enough to dictate a dinner. Where I would think a nice Zinfandel would go with my lamb chops I could easily do cocktails with the mahi-mahi. I would need a menu to remember the drink details but will mention what I can... a vodka fruity martini-thing with cracked pepper and star anise floating on top. Wonderful drink. A pomegranate mojito was light but powerful, a cream soda and raspberry vodka was also lighter than you'd think but still sweet and punchy. The strawberry and something martini was not sweet but very cold and tart. I'd get another of "those" next time.

Appetizers of fried artichokes with truffle dressing and sweetened soy dipping options and lobster pot stickers were starters. The lobster didn't do much for me but the truffle dressing turned into the surrogate butter for the rosemary crisp bread as well. Mmmmm. The sweet soy did the trick too.

Entrees of scallops, lamb chops and mahi-mahi were all beautiful. The scallops were the best with a light risotto bedding. The mahi-mahi looked great with a drizzled sauce presentation and the lamb stuffed with cambazola was tasty and crusty and probably needed the Zin more than the 2 cocktails.

The service was efficient and the restaurant was nicely crowded for a weeknight. Lucky, Carol Wallack offered her miso cod dish at the "At the Table" event and stole the show. That dish is available on the sola menu as well.

sola also serves brunch Saturday and Sunday. The huevos benedictos (Chorizo, cornbread and salsa) has my attention.

Friday, April 14, 2006

Chicago Sun Times

Bruno's quick bites

Recently reviewed restaurants by dining critic Pat Bruno. (Star ratings: **** Outstanding; *** Very Good; ** Good; * Fair.)

The food has three dominant influences: Asian, Hawaiian and American. The goodness of this pleasant and most enjoyable restaurant is subtle in that you can have a fine three-course dinner for as low as $24 (before tax and tip). Classy digs yet very casual. Try the caramelized onion tart, Asian pear salad, seared scallops, lamb chops, braised short ribs and pecan molasses cake. ***

Monday, April 10, 2006

Metromix.com

Ramp it up, people! Starve a cold, feed a spring fever with these fresh veggies

By Amelia Levin

Yep, another schizo Chicago spring. Just when we think we're onto a real warming trend--zap!--it's frigid again. It's enough to drive us to, well, eat. Good thing spring has just sprung at these these spots.

Spring pickin's: asparagus

Perhaps the most popular spring vegetable, asparagus delivers enough antioxidants to dose the Jolly Green Giant. Plus, legend has it the slender green stalks have aphrodisiac qualities--perfect for when spring love is in the air, right?

Eat 'em at: sola

Chef Carol Wallack puts it simply when she says asparagus stalks are great because "they're sweet and taste good." We agree. At her Lincoln Square eatery, she serves them lightly grilled with a white soy-truffle vinaigrette alongside porcini-crusted salmon ($19).

Wednesday, April 5, 2006

Red Eye

The outdoor cafe at this North Center spot's courtesy of the same folks who designed the interior, so expect similar decor elements - like a matching ornamental railing and earthy hues - to spill on to the sidewalk around May 1. Dig into springtime offerings like striped bass over baby bok choy with a peekytoe crab-laced green papaya salad ($25).

Tuesday, April 4, 2006

Metromix.com

It's gettin' hot out here! Well, maybe lukewarm, but now's the time to plan for alfresco season

By Terri Mooney

sola

The outdoor cafe at this North Center spot's courtesy of the same folks who designed the interior, so expect similar decor elements--like a matching ornamental railing and earthy hues--to spill on to the sidewalk around May 1. Dig into springtime offerings like striped bass over baby bok choy with a peekytoe crab-laced green papaya salad ($25).

Friday, March 31, 2006

Friday, March 24, 2006

WBBM Radio

sola

by Sherman Kaplan

CHICAGO (WBBM Newsradio 780) -- Self described “surfer girl” Carol Wallack has found the perfect balance at her new restaurant, sola, at 3868 North Lincoln Avenue. She cut her cooking chops at Deleece, before venturing out on her own a few months back. sola has become an instant hit, and for good reason.

In fact, we found hardly a stumble from appetizer to dessert. Begin with seemingly simple tuna tartare, served as a trio focusing on individual embellishments. One is fairly straight forward, a second has a pleasant, not overly sharp pepper bite. The third is seasoned with ginger.

In another creation, Wallack uses lobster and ground shitakis as filling for Thai style pot stickers, set in a golden coconut and ginger broth. This is big time come back cooking!

Among other apps, Asian pear salad is simple and direct with blue cheese and walnuts. Carrot soup with star anise was the recent daily broth at sola. This could not be better, giving direct proof of Wallack’s pronounced culinary talent.

The California style cooking has other Asian influences, each subtle, suggestive of a clear sense of style and taste. Roast salmon crusted with dried porcini mushroom chips is a fine example. One might not really know this is salmon, save for its pale pink color and fresh identifiable taste.

Black cod in miso broth or five spiced Asian duck are other examples. Flavors are never overstated, but most if not all are clearly present and identifiable as part of the whole culinary impression.

While some of this suggests the ephemeral character of fine dining, there are contrasts. Braised short ribs, pork tenderloin in a bacon wrap or a New York strip steak with Béarnaise and Worcestershire sauces break the mold.

As for desserts, chocolate cake with a warm liquid fudge center is a model of its type and leads the list of nearly a dozen selections. Service is perfect. Expect to spend about $75 a couple for three courses plus add ons. There is valet parking and even curb side carryout.

sola at 3868 North Lincoln Avenue has a K/RATING of 20/20. AMBIANCE 4/4 HOSPITALITY 5/5 FOOD 10/10 VALUE 1/1

Wednesday, March 22, 2006

Chicago Free Press

New Bistro offers Asian-inspired fare for sophisticated tastes

by Rick Karlin

+ DOWNLOAD This article and view as PDF

Thursday, March 16, 2006

UR Chicago

SIDEDISH

by Patrick Sisson

The project of self-proclaimed “surfer girl” and chef Carol Wallack, Sola seems a bit understated at first approach. The entrance to the amicable interior of this contemporary American joint -- an array of slightly muted, earthy tones set behind large panes of glass -- is tucked away just around the corner on Byron Street. But once you get a table and get settled, you’ll notice the place definitely has personality.

Wallack wanted to create a “relaxed, conversation-friendly environment,” and Sola scores big in that department. A three-sided fireplace adds character and a raised ledge filled with small, couple-friendly tables stretches out the contemporary room. Despite the grid of light fixtures on the ceilings that look a bit like a mod Lite Brite set, everything -- even the wall art -- is classy but not overbearing, focusing your attention on the conversation or cuisine at hand.

The menu is Californian (very crisp and clean), with lots of seafood and heavy Asian and Hawaiian influence. That doesn’t mean tiki torches, poo-poo platters and Don Ho. It’s full of subtle touches, such as the hint of coconut in the lobster pot stickers, which add more depth to American-style dishes. Appetizers, such as the trio of tuna tartare with a Thai cucumber sauce and ginger confit, have satisfying and sharp flavors. The main courses, which average just over $20, are savory dishes. The black pepper tuna, coated in the pungent spice, is rich and substantial, complimented well by the black beluga lentils and sweet balsamic soy sauce. But the braised short ribs, with a texture as succulent and chewy as pot roast, are stick-to-your ribs good. Served with glazed Brussels sprouts (much better than you remember as a kid) and white cheddar macaroni and cheese, it’s an aesthete’s idea of comfort food.

Friday, March 10, 2006

NorthShore Magazine Online

The Lamb Chops that Saved Lakeview

coming soon

Wednesday, March 8, 2006

Dish

Eight Reasons to Eat at Sola

An FOD report on Sola (3868 N. Lincoln Ave.; 773-327-3868):

1. The tables are far apart.
2. No loud music.
3. Reasonably conversation friendly.
4. Fireplace is a nice touch.
5. Artichoke fritters are a throwback to Gordon Sinclair.
6. Peppered tuna done to perfection.
7. Really liked their bread basket.
8. Great coffee.

Friday, March 3, 2006

Chicago Reader

Recent Arrivals

sola
By David Hammond

At SOLA self-described former surfer girl Carol Wallack has dreamed up a menu board with expert balance. A roasted-pepper-and-fennel soup came with a sambuca-infused creme fraiche; a sea greens salad was crisp with water chestnuts and played the bitterness of hijiki against the sweet spiciness of hoisin. There were some gimmicks: the “trio of tuna tartares,” though fresh, were indistinct in flavor; Parmesan fries with truffle oil sounded fabulous but turned out to be a fancified version of what you’d get at Gene and Jude’s. Far more memorable was the black cod, marinated three days in miso paste and rice vinegar, then seared and served with curried sunchokes and bamboo rice; it paired very well with a 2004 Mak sauvignon blanc big with grapefruit notes. We also tried Colorado lamb chops with eggplant and leeks, for which our server suggested a medium-weight Cartlidge & Brown pinot noir—an excellent match. Capping things off were citrus pound cake with mango curd and a molten chocolate cake with sesame brickle ice cream and wasabi-vanilla bean syrup. Sola delivers its entire menu curbside—call ahead, pay with a card, and pull up in front.

Thursday, March 2, 2006

Time Out Chicago : Issue 53

Here comes the sun

It’s not a day at the beach, but Sola manages to take the edge off winter
By David Tamarkin Photograph by Donna Rickles

Note to restaurateurs: sun imagery works. Especially in the middle of winter.

Case in point: Sola, Lincoln Square’s comfortable new venue for chef-owner Carol Wallack’s cooking. Even though the name translates to “alone”—a reference to the fact that Wallack is on her own this time around, having just come from a collaboration with her sister at Deleece—customers and the restaurant’s publicists are focusing only on the first part of the word: Sol. “Sun.” And judging from Sola’s crowds, sun is exactly what Chicago is craving.

The essence of the sun—or at least the sun-soaked culture of the West Coast and Hawaii—is what Wallack tries to infuse into every dish on her menu. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t; either way, her menu is usually successful. The caramelized onion tartlet is a superb starter, its golden crust a rich base for the creamy, sweet-and-savory combination of onions, apples and Gruyère. And her brandade (whipped salt-cod puree) contains a touch of ginger, just enough to lighten up this classically rich dish—and, of course, to mark it with Wallack’s stamp.

Another Wallack original is “Carol’s Colorado Lamb Chops.” She’s been working on this dish for years, and it shows. The lamb is so tender it’s practically creamy, and the Dijon crust plays off the lamb’s gaminess brilliantly. It almost made up for the lackluster grouper, set atop a pile of bland purple rice.

Dessert is a funny concept for a restaurant that attempts to capture the essence of the beach (and all the trim, toned bodies on it). But Wallack consulted HotChocolate’s Mindy Segal on her creations and came up with a few that fit with her philosophy. The Thai coffee crème brûlée and pecan molasses cake are both fine. But they aren’t essential, and it’s just as well if you skip them. Besides, as Sola tries to remind us, swimsuit season is just around the corner.

Wednesday, March 1, 2006

WHERE Magazine

SOLA-Los Angeles native and self-professed "surfer girl" Carol Wallack recently opened this Asian-inspired contemporary American spot in the North Center neighborhood. The menu features plates like lobster shiitake pot pie with coconut ginger broth; miso black cod with bamboo rice and curried sunchokes; and dijon mustard-crusted colorado lamb chops.

Wednesday, February 22, 2006

mmmchicago.com

Tastemaker: Carol Wallack

From time to time, mmmChicago asks local "tastemakers" — everyone from bartenders to DJs to shopowners to scenesters — questions about Chicago and their area of expertise. Carol Wallack, a self-professed surfer girl and former chef and co-owner of Deleece has set out on her own. sola, at 3868 N. Lincoln Ave., serves American cuisine with Asian and Hawaiian influences. Here, she answers a few questions about her latest endeavor.

Chicago certainly isn't a hotbed of Hawaiian cuisine—what kind of tastes should diners expect at sola?
We aren’t really Hawaiian (ie: spam or Kalua Pig). My heart is in Hawaii as I live there part-time (being a surfer from California for over 30 years) but I love the foods (fish, vegetable, fruits) that are indigenous. There is a lot of Asian influence there... it's simple, clean and fresh. We always offer a Hawaiian fish or two that I have flown in 36 hours out, right off the dock.

Is there a must-try dish on the menu?
The "signature" rack of Lamb, the miso cod, the porcini-crusted salmon, the trio of tuna tartars, the artichoke fritters, any Hawaiian fish (Opakapaka, Ono, Onaga)...

What could Chicago's restaurant scene use more of? Less of?
Less pretention.

When you're not in your own kitchen, where do you go to dine?
Yoshi, Trio, Sansei (my favorite restaurant on Maui), Penny's Noodle Shop.

What's on deck for spring?
More of the same, but different: Contemporary American with Asian influence.

Saturday, February 18, 2006

Ralph Pancetta

sola Restaurant Review

Having spent a good portion of my life and time commuting back and forth between California and the suburbs of Chicago – the Fox Valley area – it has at times been somewhat difficult for me to decide where to call home. And having just recently returned from another extended sortie west, I was still smiling about some of the great dining found in various places on the coast, south of San Jose. It is difficult to describe the differences between there and here – dining-wise – but there are definite and notable differences that I wish more places here could replicate.

Perhaps it was the lure of a kindred spirit – a chef – from the west coast that motivated me, and perhaps it was just the lure of a chance to again venture into the city of Chicago. No matter. This past Wednesday, Lauren and I headed east for dinner at a new restaurant called Sola. Located not far from Wrigley Field, in what is referred to as West Lakeview, the upscale venue features an incredibly innovative menu packed with mouth-watering creations from California native Carol Wallack, who says the name Sola not only evokes the sun, but also is a feminine version of "solo". The drive in to the city was like a trip to the dentist, and I felt as if I needed Novocain to complete the leg from the Kennedy in to the restaurant - it was an agonizing crawl. Once inside the front door however, it was as if Scottie had beamed me back to the coast. General Manager John Arents met us at the door, and his demure calm and wide smile was the opening sedative that led to a relaxed and totally enjoyable evening.

The interior was almost austere, yet it exuded a soothing warmth. The colors were the gentle earth-tones of the southwest; a fireplace glowed and the ceiling was filled with slender, curved columns of amber that cast a gentle and comfortable glow on the dining room. Topping the white table cloths were sienna-brown paper sheets, cloth napkins and silverware, a single salt/pepper grinder and a single flower brightly smiling from its square glass container. We were immediately provided with ice water and our server - Anya - asked if we would care for a cocktail. After that drive? Absolutely! Lauren chose a Saki-tini (gin with a splash of Saki, garnished with cucumber bits) and I ordered a Stoli martini garnished with onions soaked in vermouth. Both drinks were served in chilled "up" glasses and were perfect.

As we gazed at the menu - described as Contemporary American - I could almost hear the roar of the ocean. The unmistakable influence of both sides of the Pacific Ocean were immediately obvious in appetizers such as artichoke fritters with soy lime & white truffle-honey sauces ($6), lobster shiitake pot cooked in coconut ginger broth ($9), crab cakes with oriental salad and citrus gastrique ($8) or a trio of tuna tartars served with Thai cucumber salsa and ginger confit ($12). Or how about the entrees like bacon wrapped pork tenderloin with butter squash, chanterelles, pomegranate demiglace and apples ($17); Nobu's miso black cod with bamboo rice and curried sunchokes ($19); black pepper tuna with black beluga lentils, balsamic soy syrup, shiitake and snow peas ($23); or Opakapaka (Hawaiian Red Snapper) served en papillote with pineapple, shiitake, mint and cilantro ($22). Can you say Maui... ocean... west coast? I knew ya could!

For starters, Lauren and I decided to get the Artichoke Fritters and the Crab Cakes and sample some of each. The cakes were some of the very best I have had (and I have sampled them everywhere I see them on a menu) with palate-pleasing oriental nuances. The artichoke fritters had the most delicate and lightest of breading, and the two sauces were delicate, very different from one another, so complimentary and sooo good, I think I could have made a meal of them. For dinner, Lauren selected a pan-broiled Grouper, nestled on a grilled pineapple ring with purple rice, a slick and slightly spicy salsa and topped with avocado slices. I chose an evening special (soon to be on the menu): a “five-spice-rubbed" duck breast over parsnip–leek "hash-browns" with a brandied cherry demi-glace and ginger braised endive. The fish was tender and perfectly cooked; the duck breast was seared on the outside, fairly rare on the inside and very flavorful. Can you say "unbelievable"? I knew you could say that too! Both dishes were exquisite and the flavors were outstanding. For dessert we split a pecan-molasses cake with Maker's Mark bourbon and a bourbon-caramel sauce with a scoop of home-made buttermilk ice cream. Angelic!

It was an excellent evening. And for a relatively new restaurant, things ran as if the place had been open for years. Plating of the entrees was done with an artist's hand, the flavors were absolutely incredible, the prices were way reasonable and Anya was the exclamation point on the service - always with a smile at the table and throughout the dining room. Ms. Wallack has done her homework and Sola is the perfect place for a casual, yet fine dining experience. And believe it or not, there is even carry-out service! If Sola weren't such a long drive for me, I know I would be a regular. Sola easily receives 4 1/2 Zins, and my recommendation is to make a reservation to go there ASAP. Thanks To Chef Carol Wollack and her entire crew for bringing the warmth of the coast to a cold hinterland!

Thursday, February 16, 2006

Chicagoist

When Chicagoist went out to check out Chef Carol Wallack's new restaurant, sola (3868 N. Lincoln Ave.), this week we had high hopes. Luckily, we were not disappointed. The cuisine at sola is contemporary American, but because of Chef Wallack's background, there's a lot of Hawaiian and Asian flair. Chicagoist started off with the lobster and shitake potstickers (no-brainer!) and a carmelized onion tartlet (gruyere, sweet Maui onions, and apple) that we thought was intruging and ended up being really "wow"ed by. Delish. We also tried the hot and sour soup. Best. Hot & Sour. Ever. For entrees we stuck with seafood, which is the majority of the menu, but there is a NY Strip for those who need to get their meat on. Chicagoist got the ono and miso black cod - Nobu's famous. Both were cooked perfectly, flavorful with sides and sauces that complimented, but didn't overwhelm these tender fish. Oh, also, the waiter didn't need to twist our arm very hard to get us to try the parmesan truffle french fries. Holy smokes, pommes frites used to be our favorite fried pototo, but not any more.

The drink menu included many specialty, tropical drinks. We were partial to the Wicked Wahine and the mai tai. Don't know what were in them, but they were sweet and fruity and brought us back to the islands. Also, you won't find any Bud Lite on the beer menu. They've taken care to select unique beers and we enjoyed trying the Bitter End Pale Ale and Alpha King Pale Ale.

Chef Wallack was raised in Malibu and lived in Hawaii. She describes herself as a "surfer girl," but it's a bit more serious than that. After high school Chef Wallack was on the surfing circuit and travelled internationally. Then about 10 years ago she moved to Chicago and opened up Deleece (another Chicagoist favorite) with her sister. Ready to strike out on her own, Chef Wallack opened sola just a few weeks ago. We learned all of the tidbits about the chef while talking with her during our dinner. We saw her mingling around the dining room a bit so we hope she'd stop by. Maybe we're just dorks, but talking to the chef always makes us feel like superstars! Once Chef Wallack figured out that Chicagoist's date was raised in Hawaii, she had to pull up a seat to reminisce. Awesome! Chef Wallack owns a house in Mauai that is not only a good real estate investment that pretty much guarantees she'll be retiring in paradise, but also is a reason for her to go back to the islands about 10 times per year. And this gives her a chance to make some important hookups, like the kind she has with her fish supplier for sola.

They're able to offer fresh Hawaiian fish like ono (a Hawaiian fish in the mackeral family) and opakapaka (Hawaiian snapper) because Chef Wallack has worked out a deal so that when the fish are caught, they're immediately shipped to her and within 36 hours are served as your dinner. Pretty quick for fish only available across the globe.

Chef Wallack was very personable and open to talking and answering any questions we had about the menu or the restaurant. When it came time for dessert we weren't able to decide what to get. Chef told us what she liked best but then said "you know, but get what you want" and we were kind of like "but if the chef recommends something, you have to get it, right?" As a compromise, she went back into the kitchen and made us a combo sampler platter with each of the desserts we said we were interested in trying. Our waiter said he'd never seen that before.. so .. Score! Another nice touch was that 2 people near us were having birthdays. They were given little birthday desserts with a candle in them and around the edge of the plate it said "Happy Birthday," in Hawaiian: "Hau'oli La Hanau."

What it really comes down to are the details at sola. When you walk in they check your coat for you, when it's your birthday they acknowledge it without being obnoxious, if you have questions they answer them unpretentiously: they go out of their way to make sure you're happy. And the space is gorgeous. Did we forget to mention that? So warm and inviting. Not so dark that you need a flashlight to read the menu, but not so bright and stark that you feel like you're in the hospital cafeteria. Chef Wallack got everything at sola just right.

Wednesday, February 15, 2006

Metromix.com

sola flair

What makes this new spot such a right-out-of-the-box hit?
By Chris LaMorte

It was only midweek, but securing a Saturday reservation at sola, the two-and-a-half-week-old North Center spot, was proving to be tougher than I anticipated.

"Sorry, sir, the earliest we can seat you is 9:30 p.m.," said the reservationist.

Really? I thought. Good reservation times (which, for me at least, means 8 p.m.) can be a pain in trendy River North, but c'mon; this is homey North Center. Sure, sola has some buzz, but it's holding back on seatings. Right?

Wrong! This place was packed. Really packed. And by the time I left, I knew why. sola's got the right balance of food, ambience and price.

It's a winnng recipe that, no doubt, chef/owner Carol Wallack helped to perfect while exec chef at Deleece before striking out on her own with this spot. And while this venture doesn't really resemble Deleece--Sola offers Asian-inflected, contemporary American fare (even treading into comfort food) and a more tailored, upscale vibe--it has a similar approach: Offer solid, occasionally stellar cuisine in an approachable space at a great price. Hey, why not line up for it?

From a $17 bacon-wrapped pork tenderloin to $28 dijon mustard-crusted lamb chops, the something-for-everyone menu doesn't try to make our heads spin with ambition but rather impresses with execution. My tender, savory braised short ribs ($20), for instance--served off the bone and paired with deliciously creamy mac 'n' cheese--will no doubt be a crowd-pleaser.

Of course, crowds here aren't the trendoid, what's-the-next-big-thing class of idiots who usually infect new spots. To my eye, the crowd seemed to skew toward middle-age. Yet I was entertained by at least one attractive, well-dressed, twentysomething couple engaged in some pre-Valentine's, post-dessert liplocking.

If it was sola's decor that inspired their ardor, my boyfriend, Rob, and I--to everyone's relief--didn't share it. sola is a good place to bring your parents and tell them you just got engaged, but not an ideal place for the proposal. Yes, there's a warm color palette, and the constellation of hanging pendant lights is striking. But the central room (there's a smaller seating area on the side) with a fairly noticeable noise level isn't cozy. The room's more stylish than super-sexy, sort of like the food.

The standout, believe it or not, was the salad. Yep, the quirky sea greens ($6) will impress even carnivorous he-men with sweet, tangy hoisin vinaigrette over mildly liquorice-y hijiki seaweed.

There were two shrugs of the night. First, the tuna tartare trio ($12): One was salty, one sweet, the last spicy. But each was outgunned by the accompanying tortilla chips and cucumber salsa. The other: Rob's pan–roasted grouper ($20), which offered a potentially interesting orange-chili sauce but needed more of it to give this dish spark.

There is one similarity to Deleece, perhaps more noticeable to dedicated elbow-benders like myself: sola makes a mean cocktail (there's even a dessert martini list). I was so impressed with the gorgeous strawberry-muddled Valentini ($9), I stole the idea for a dinner party we were throwing the next night. (For the record, mine was merely a muddled mess.)

Even the wine list ($7-$11) pops with plenty of personality: We liked the off-the-beaten-path selections like the $8 2004 Kuentz Bas, an Alsatian Sylvaner.

Speaking of off the beaten path, sola's address is on Lincoln Avenue, but the entrance is actually a few steps down on Byron Street, which we hear is causing a bit of confusion.

But if the crowd we saw there is any indication, people aren't having any trouble finding it now.

Friday, February 10, 2006

Chicago Scene

LET THE SUN SHINE

coming soon

Thursday, February 9, 2006

Chicago Tribune

Car hops for the Volvo set

coming soon

Wednesday, February 8, 2006

AOL Cityguide

Emily's Weekly Pick

In our new Valentine's Day feature, you'll find ideas for dancing, dining, romancing and yes, even sweating on Valentine's Day. If you've dined just about everywhere in town and want to impress your date with a new hot spot, I recommend Sola in North Center. The former Deleece chef Carol Wallack opened this new gem less than two weeks ago, and it was absolutely packed last Saturday night. The bacon wrapped pork tenderloin served with butternut squash, mushrooms and apples is a work of art, and the artichoke fritters are a delicious starter. The waitstaff is efficient and friendly, and you'd think they'd been in business for years by how well your meal is choreographed. Enjoy!

Monday, February 6, 2006

Gayot.com

Say “hey” to Sola (3868 N. Lincoln Ave.), the brainchild of self- proclaimed “surfer girl” and former chef to Hollywood celebrities, Carol Wallack. The restaurant is a hot pot of American, Hawaiian and Asian cooking. Bites include pork dumplings with steamed ginger, Asian chicken broth and Fuji apple chutney and Hawaiian Red Snapper en papillote pineapple, shiitake, mint and cilantro.

Wednesday, February 1, 2006

AOL Cityguide

Sola Shines in North Center

Former Deleece chef Carol Wallack brings her culinary talents to her new venture. Expect Asian and Hawaiian influences.
From the Editors

Friendly, warm and exotic, this ambitious Hawaiian-themed restaurant surfaces in North Center/West Lakeview. Sola doesn't attempt to transport diners to the Big Island, as you won't find any traces of kitschy bamboo, tiki figurines or lais. Instead, owner/chef Carol Wallack goes for a neighborhood-ish setting with the help of design team Olsen and Vranas (also behind MK and HOTCHOCOLATE). Their signature style of muted colors and funky furniture hits a soothing note at Sola as the dining room is immersed in colors of gold, rust and chocolate. Diners, of course, are given their Polynesian experience through the menu as Wallack meticulously creates a comfortable and budget-conscious lineup that's ideal for this area. Braised short ribs with glazed brussel sprouts and truffled white polenta; loin of lamb with Dijon crust and stuffed with cambazola; and a vegetable pot pie of beets, parsnips, rutabaga, wild mushrooms and truffle oil are certain to be crowd pleasers. The a la carte brunch menu, however, is all over the board with offerings such as German apple pancakes, potato onion pie and a tuna burger with vegetable fries. -- Audarshia Townsend

Sunday, January 29, 2006

Time Out Chicago: Issue 48

EatOutDrinkUp

Recently opened
Sola
Roy (of the eponymous megachain) better watch his back: Chef Carol Wallack (opening chef of Deleece) is a self-described "surfer girl" with a menu packed with Hawaiian fish, Asian flavors and French techniques, evidenced in dishes like opakapaka (Hawaiian red snapper) with pineapple, shiitake, mint and cilantro and miso black cod with bamboo rice and curried sunchokes. In contrast, straight-up American gets its place with veggie pot pie and roasted chicken, standard comforts that go hand-in-hand with the fireplace-warmed, wood-and-leather design of Olsen and Vranas (mk, HotChocolate). 3868 N Lincoln Ave at Byron St (773-327-3868). El: Brown to Irving Park. Bus: 11, 50, 80, X80. Dinner. Average main course: $19 . Vegetarian-friendly

Friday, January 27, 2006

Daily Candy

Catch the Wave

Imagine if restaurant reviews were written in surfer cliche.

Simply wicked braised endive was served alongside bodacious black cod. And we’ll be back for the totally righteous rack of lamb.

Hmm. At least we’d know a winner from a wipeout.

If owner/chef Carol Wallack’s work at Deleece is any indication, we’ll be raving about Sola, the new contemporary American spot that she opened yesterday. The menu is filled with South Pacific twists that play off her surfer-girl past (she grew up riding waves in Malibu and has a second home in Hawaii). Daily fish specials share billing with a trio of tuna tartares and braised short ribs.

Such beachy dishes are at home in a dining room that swims with golds and browns and is bathed in toasty, amber lighting. Too busy to take a seat? Just call ahead, drive up, and have your eats delivered right to your car.

That, dudes, is oh so tubular.

AOL Cityguide

sola

Say aloha to this Hawaiian-inspired menu.
From the Editors

Friendly, warm and exotic, this ambitious Hawaiian-themed restaurant surfaces in North Center/West Lakeview.
Sola doesn't attempt to transport diners to the Big Island, as you won't find any traces of kitschy bamboo, tiki
figurines or lais. Instead, owner/chef Carol Wallack goes for a neighborhood-ish setting with the help of design
team Olsen and Vranas (also behind MK and HOTCHOCOLATE). Their signature style of muted colors and funky
furniture hits a soothing note at Sola as the dining room is immersed in colors of gold, rust and chocolate. Diners,
of course, are given their Polynesian experience through the menu as Wallack meticulously creates a comfortable
and budget-conscious lineup that's ideal for this area. Braised short ribs with glazed brussel sprouts and truffled
white polenta; loin of lamb with Dijon crust and stuffed with cambazola; and a vegetable pot pie of beets, parsnips,
rutabaga, wild mushrooms and truffle oil are certain to be crowd pleasers. The a la carte brunch menu, however, is
all over the board with offerings such as German apple pancakes, potato onion pie and a tuna burger with
vegetable fries. -- Audarshia Townsend

Restaurant
• Eclectic
• Hawaiian Regional
• Seafood
• Vegetarian-friendly

Wednesday, January 25, 2006

6NT.com

Chef goes out on her own with much-anticipated Sola

Chef Carol Wallack (Deleece) is a self-described "surfer girl" and former chef-to-the-stars. This month, she unleashes her style of contemporary American-Asian cuisine on Chicago with Sola.

The West Lakeview eatery, designed by seasoned restaurant architects Keith Olsen and Cynthia Vranas, is intended to create a casual, comfortable, and conversation-friendly dining experience. Wallack's classic dishes — including her signature rack of lamb stuffed with cambazola and eggplant puree and sesame crusted tuna with Thai cucumber salsa and ginger confit — ought to give diners something special to talk about.

Surf's up! Sola, opens in late January for dinner (lunch and brunch will follow in March) at 3868 N. Lincoln Ave., Chicago, 773.327.3868.

Metromix.com

sola

Carol Wallack, former chef at Deleece, is opening Sola January 26. She's enlisted Keith Olsen and Cynthia Vranas, the team behind the decor at Hot Chocolate and MK; look for hues of rust, amber and orange with plenty of textural accents. The dining room will feature a raised platform area with luxe drapes, and there will be a custom-made L-shaped banquette. Good news for those who hate loud restaurants -- special acoustic work is in the works so the room will be conversation friendly. The seasonal menu will be very straightforward with California flair and plenty of Asian and Hawaiian flavors. Look for choices like peppered tuna with black beluga lentils, balsamic soy syrup, shiitake mushrooms and snow peas or braised short ribs with glazed Brussels sprouts and truffle-laced white polenta. Most entrees will top out around $20. Wallack is targeting the carryout aspect, there will be curbside service for diners on the go (once the loading zone is in place).

Monday, January 23, 2006

Daily Herald

Here's what's happening on the Chicago-area dining scene:

New restaurants
BY BARBARA VITELLO Daily Herald Staff Writer

Restaurant veteran opens new venue: Former Deleece chef/owner Carol Wallack opens her latest venture sola, later this month at 3868 N. Lincoln Ave., Chicago.

The name, says California native Wallack in a prepared statement, refers to the sun. It's also the feminine version of "solo," which reflects the chef/owner's determination to "do her own thing."

The menu features contemporary American fare, with South Pacific accents. Highlights include: Hawaiian red snapper, miso black cod with bamboo rice, black pepper tuna with black beluga lentils, braised short ribs with glazed Brussel sprouts and other items. (773) 327-3868.

Sunday, January 22, 2006

Metromix.com

Sola

Carol Wallack, former chef at Deleece, is opening her own spot on Jan. 25 or 26. While the menu focuses on contemporary American cuisine with lots of Asian influence (fresh veggies, ginger, Asian spices), Wallack says service will focus entirely on you; she interviewed about 1,000 potential servers to fill about 15 positions to ensure she got the creme de la creme. "It was like trying out for 'American Idol,'" she says. "It was crazy!" And what does great service mean? For starters, Wallack says she's waiting on a loading zone permit to enable curbside pickup. "There's nothing worse than getting a kid out of a car seat." Just phone ahead, place your order, then use your cell to let them know you're waiting outside.