WBBM Radio

sola

by Sherman Kaplan

CHICAGO (WBBM Newsradio 780) -- Self described “surfer girl” Carol Wallack has found the perfect balance at her new restaurant, sola, at 3868 North Lincoln Avenue. She cut her cooking chops at Deleece, before venturing out on her own a few months back. sola has become an instant hit, and for good reason.

In fact, we found hardly a stumble from appetizer to dessert. Begin with seemingly simple tuna tartare, served as a trio focusing on individual embellishments. One is fairly straight forward, a second has a pleasant, not overly sharp pepper bite. The third is seasoned with ginger.

In another creation, Wallack uses lobster and ground shitakis as filling for Thai style pot stickers, set in a golden coconut and ginger broth. This is big time come back cooking!

Among other apps, Asian pear salad is simple and direct with blue cheese and walnuts. Carrot soup with star anise was the recent daily broth at sola. This could not be better, giving direct proof of Wallack’s pronounced culinary talent.

The California style cooking has other Asian influences, each subtle, suggestive of a clear sense of style and taste. Roast salmon crusted with dried porcini mushroom chips is a fine example. One might not really know this is salmon, save for its pale pink color and fresh identifiable taste.

Black cod in miso broth or five spiced Asian duck are other examples. Flavors are never overstated, but most if not all are clearly present and identifiable as part of the whole culinary impression.

While some of this suggests the ephemeral character of fine dining, there are contrasts. Braised short ribs, pork tenderloin in a bacon wrap or a New York strip steak with Béarnaise and Worcestershire sauces break the mold.

As for desserts, chocolate cake with a warm liquid fudge center is a model of its type and leads the list of nearly a dozen selections. Service is perfect. Expect to spend about $75 a couple for three courses plus add ons. There is valet parking and even curb side carryout.

sola at 3868 North Lincoln Avenue has a K/RATING of 20/20. AMBIANCE 4/4 HOSPITALITY 5/5 FOOD 10/10 VALUE 1/1