UR Chicago

SIDEDISH

by Patrick Sisson

The project of self-proclaimed “surfer girl” and chef Carol Wallack, Sola seems a bit understated at first approach. The entrance to the amicable interior of this contemporary American joint -- an array of slightly muted, earthy tones set behind large panes of glass -- is tucked away just around the corner on Byron Street. But once you get a table and get settled, you’ll notice the place definitely has personality.

Wallack wanted to create a “relaxed, conversation-friendly environment,” and Sola scores big in that department. A three-sided fireplace adds character and a raised ledge filled with small, couple-friendly tables stretches out the contemporary room. Despite the grid of light fixtures on the ceilings that look a bit like a mod Lite Brite set, everything -- even the wall art -- is classy but not overbearing, focusing your attention on the conversation or cuisine at hand.

The menu is Californian (very crisp and clean), with lots of seafood and heavy Asian and Hawaiian influence. That doesn’t mean tiki torches, poo-poo platters and Don Ho. It’s full of subtle touches, such as the hint of coconut in the lobster pot stickers, which add more depth to American-style dishes. Appetizers, such as the trio of tuna tartare with a Thai cucumber sauce and ginger confit, have satisfying and sharp flavors. The main courses, which average just over $20, are savory dishes. The black pepper tuna, coated in the pungent spice, is rich and substantial, complimented well by the black beluga lentils and sweet balsamic soy sauce. But the braised short ribs, with a texture as succulent and chewy as pot roast, are stick-to-your ribs good. Served with glazed Brussels sprouts (much better than you remember as a kid) and white cheddar macaroni and cheese, it’s an aesthete’s idea of comfort food.