Chicago Sun-Times

Portuguese version of 'fried dough' tempts at Sola

by Lisa Donovan

Ann Sather has the sweet rolls that need no introduction. Tweet, Michelle Fire's Uptown eatery, offers scrumptious petit fours- shaped coffee cakes as a breakfast starter.

And now, weekend-destination brunch spot Sola, 3868 N. Lincoln, offers malasadas. Portuguese doughnuts to the uninitiated, or for those who haven't had the luxury of hopping a flight to Hawaii where they are a favorite among the tourists and locals alike.

It's where Sola's owner and chef Carol Wallack, who owns a second home in Maui, discovered the "fried bread" and transported it back here.

Before sinking our teeth in to what these pastries are all about - - golf-ball sized and deep fried to deliver a crispy shell that disguises a just-sweet-enough yellow cake center -- let's consider the history.

Yes, malasadas are native to Portugal, but have earned their culinary spot in Hawaii after Portuguese crews were enlisted to help develop the islands in the late 1800s through the early 1900s. To this day, no one is sure how malasadas -- once spelled malassadas -- lost the third "s."

But Wallack says she was looking for the "hook" so many other restaurants, like Ann Sather, have and believes her sugar-coated, melt-in-your mouth malasadas will translate with diners.

"Every culture has their fried dough. We have a chef here, who is part Japanese and has spent time living in Hawaii and he remarked that in Hawaii they have malasadas and in Arkansas they have funnel cakes," she said.

An order of four malasadas, delivered piping hot to the table with two dipping sauces, raspberry puree and mango curd, are $7.

They're not on the printed menu -- yet -- but servers happily remind the Saturday and Sunday brunch set that it's a wonderful way to start the day.