Centerstage Chicago

Making Waves

Surfer-turned-chef Carol Wallack brightens up the city with sola's sunny fare.
By Michael Nagrant

A former surfer who grew up in sunny California and Hawaii, Carol Wallack, chef and owner of sola, has quickly learned how the razor chafe of Chicago winters or rainy summer squalls can dampen the spirit. She bucks up her patrons with tasty California- and Asian-accented cuisine that's clean, balanced and, next to the butter-drenched fare clogging our city's restaurants, relatively healthy. To her, cooking means caring for others by delivering the foods they want and need. Because Wallack didn't attend culinary school, she's willing to break rules, using Spanish manchego in place of mozzarella in an heirloom tomato salad or mixing a miso and mustard French bordelaise, a sauce traditionally flavored with red wine and shallots. "Just as going to school doesn't make you a good doctor, culinary school doesn't make you a great cook," she says. "It takes passion, love, creativity and a great palate."

What do you wish you could change or pickle and preserve about the Chicago restaurant/food scene?
We have such a family (of chefs) here, a close knit restaurant community. One night we ran out of knit linens and someone lent us some. Likewise, people who run out of tuna know we get great tuna, and they might call us. We always help someone in a bind. It's an honor to be part of something like this.

What would your last meal be?
How do you know when it's your last meal? I don't plan on being in jail or death row anytime soon, but it would be sushi. I have a favorite place in Maui called Sansei. No particular fish, I would eat them all. I also love seaweed.

What Chicago Chef would you most like to share a kitchen with?
I've actually shared a kitchen with him already at Deleece, but I love Dale Levitski (currently on Bravo's Top Chef). He's an old friend with a great work ethic and a wicked personality. Also, Erick Simmons of mk. He's got a great sense of humor, and his dishes are clean.

What's the can't-miss dish at sola?
Our braised hoisin-flavored short ribs. I don't really eat meat, and I love them.

What should we know about sola that we probably don't?
Our address is on Lincoln, but the front door is on Byron. Our sous chef, Aleksiy Shalev, is a very smart, creative young guy, who is definitely going places.

Five for Frying is a weekly Food Feature that asks one chef five fun questions.